Must have: History of iconic Chanel Slingbacks

Today, Chanel slingbacks remain a timeless accessory that speaks to women of all ages, empowering them through the understated elegance and bodily autonomy they afford. 

Following her creation of timeless little black dresses, tweed tailoring, and quilted bags, Gabrielle Chanel rounded out her wardrobe essentials with these versatile and well-designed shoes suitable for wearing from morning to night. At a time when women were exploring their professional ambitions, Chanel slingbacks offered a look that was polished yet practical. By liberating its wearers from impractical, elaborately designed shoes, the slingbacks became a symbol of the more modern, independent woman — aligning with Chanel’s broader vision of femininity, characterized by ease and confidence.

In the late 1950s and early ’60s, Chanel slingbacks were more than just a fashionable new shoe; they were a reaction to the strict, hyperfeminine standards that prevailed in postwar fashion. This resurgence of glamour and opulence was largely influenced by Christian Dior’s New Look, introduced in 1947, which featured a cinched waist, rounded shoulders, and a full, long skirt. After World War II, Chanel made her comeback in the Paris fashion scene, intent on modernizing women's apparel and reclaiming her status in the industry. 

In 1957, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel teamed up with renowned French shoemaker Raymond Massaro to design the now-famous two-tone heel. This design was groundbreaking due to its elasticized slingback strap, offering both style and comfort. The original shoes featured a beige body, which made the legs appear longer, and a black cap toe, giving the illusion of smaller feet, a sought-after look at the time. These shoes quickly gained popularity for their adaptability, becoming a staple in the wardrobes of the most fashionable women of the era - including icons like Brigitte Bardot and Jackie Kennedy.

In 1937, almost 20 years before their official launch, the famous shoes had already appeared on Coco Chanel’s feet, in a signature black and white silhouette, pictured here with the Ballets Russes star Serge Lifar, whom she befriended after meeting him in 1924, on the set of Train Bleu. (Photo: Jean Moral / Brigitte Moral / Courtesy of Chanel)

Many years later, the iconic Karl Lagerfeld brought back the heel in Chanel’s fall/winter 2015 collection, partnering once more with the Massaro atelier to revitalize the shoe. As Chanel's creative director from 1983 until his death in 2019, Lagerfeld left a legacy of maintaining the brand's heritage while also adapting it for the modern era. During his tenure, Chanel slingbacks evolved from a vintage item to a modern fashion essential. 

Ines de la Fressange, Tara Shannon and a model pose in looks from Chanel’s couture fall 1983 collection. The collection is the second under the artistic direction of designer Karl Lagerfeld. (Photo: Courtesy of Chanel/Guy Marineau)

Chanel slingbacks now come in a range of heel heights, each tailored to fit various lifestyles and events. The most renowned version features the original 2.5-inch block heel. This mid-height option is favored for its balance of style and practicality, making it perfect for office wear, daytime occasions, and streetwear. The brand also provides lower heel options, such as 1.2-inch kitten heels and ballerina-style flat slingbacks, which enhance comfort and ease of wear. These styles are ideal for travel and creating stylish, casual outfits. For more formal events, slingbacks with higher heels (ranging from 3.3 to 4 inches) deliver a more elegant look while preserving the original design. 

The heritage shoe features goatskin leather for the main body and grosgrain, a tightly ribbed fabric, for the cap toe. Chanel creates seasonal versions of the classic slingbacks in colors like blush pink, baby blue, and white, utilizing the same materials.

The slingback strap, a signature element of the iconic design, rests lightly at the heel's back. It is usually elasticized or occasionally partially adjustable to provide comfort and a snug fit. Lagerfeld preserved the softly rounded almond toe from the 1957 design, imparting a timeless charm to the silhouette. Additionally, he introduced a small double-C detail on the heel and reinvented the slingbacks using various materials like tweed, patent leather, and limited-edition embellishments and fabrics such as glittered cotton guipure and grosgrain, as well as cotton tweed.

Embellished editions of Chanel slingbacks, however, are where the label’s craftsmanship truly shines. The brand applies crystals, pearls, and sequins in intricate patterns all over the shoe’s body, making them statement evening pieces.

They were designed to be lived in, not merely looked at. This contrast wasn’t just about aesthetics; it was also about women’s roles in society. 

During a period when women were pursuing their career goals, Chanel slingbacks provided a style that was both refined and functional. By freeing women from the constraints of impractical, ornate footwear, these slingbacks became an emblem of the modern, independent woman, resonating with Chanel's wider vision of femininity marked by comfort and self-assurance. Today, Chanel slingbacks continue to be a classic accessory that resonates with women of all ages, offering empowerment through their subtle elegance and the sense of bodily autonomy they provide. Ultimate must have for every quiet luxury lover!

Gina Lollobrigida surrounded by Chanel models in 1964. (Photo: Philippe Garnier / Elle-Scoop / Courtesy of Chanel)